Uzbekistan

Good to know

1. 1Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva were important stops on the Silk Road, the network of trade routes that linked China with the Mediterranean. Their old centres are full of mosques, madrasas and minarets covered in blue and turquoise tilework.
2. 2Plov, a rice dish cooked with meat, carrots and onion in a large cauldron, is considered the national dish. You will find regional versions of it all over the country, and it is often eaten at midday.
3. 3Uzbek is the official language and is written in the Latin alphabet, though Cyrillic is still seen on older signs. Russian is widely understood, especially in cities and among older people.
4. 4Tashkent, the capital, was largely rebuilt after a major earthquake in 1966. That is why it has wide avenues and Soviet-era buildings alongside a much older quarter.
5. 5The currency is the som. Bread, called non, is stamped with patterns and is treated with respect, so it is not placed upside down or thrown away carelessly.
6. 6Uzbekistan is one of only two doubly landlocked countries in the world, meaning every country that borders it is also landlocked. The Aral Sea, once large, has shrunk dramatically in the north-west.

Tips for a first visit

• Plan a route between the main cities rather than trying to see everything. Tashkent, Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva make a classic loop that works well over a week or two.
• Carry some cash as well as a card, since small shops, markets and some guesthouses may prefer cash. Keep notes in good condition, as worn or torn ones can be refused.
• Try plov, samsa (baked pastries filled with meat or pumpkin), and fresh bread from a market. Tea is served constantly, and green tea is usually the default.
• Dress modestly when visiting mosques and religious sites, with shoulders and knees covered. Take off your shoes when entering a home.
• If you are invited to a table, expect a lot of food and repeated offers of more. Accepting at least a little is polite.
• Learn a few words of Uzbek or Russian, such as greetings and thank you. People appreciate the effort even if you use them badly.

When to go

Spring, from April to early June, and autumn, from September to October, are the most comfortable times, with mild days and clear skies. Summers are very hot and dry, especially in Bukhara, Khiva and the desert areas, so sightseeing is best done early or late in the day. Winters are cold, with frost and some snow, and the cities are quiet, which suits those who want fewer crowds.

Getting around

Most visitors travel between the main cities by train, and the fast trains linking Tashkent, Samarkand and Bukhara are popular and comfortable. Longer journeys, such as to Khiva or the far west, often involve a slower train, a shared or hired car, or a domestic flight. Within cities, taxis are common and easy to arrange, and Tashkent also has a metro.