Bukhara

Good to know

1. 1Bukhara has been a trading and learning centre for well over a thousand years, and the old town is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
2. 2The Kalyan Minaret, built in the early 12th century, is said to have been spared by Genghis Khan when his army destroyed much of the city in 1220.
3. 3The old centre is built around trading domes, covered market crossings where merchants once sold caps, jewellery and money-changing services. Some of them still hold craft shops today.
4. 4Many people in Bukhara speak Tajik as well as Uzbek, a reminder of the city's long Persian-speaking past. Russian is also widely understood, especially among older people.
5. 5Plov, the rice dish cooked with meat, carrots and onion, is the national dish, and Bukhara has its own well-loved versions. Samsa, baked pastries filled with meat, are a common snack.
6. 6The Ark, a large fortress in the northwest of the old town, served for centuries as the residence of the city's rulers.

Tips for a first visit

• Stay in or near the old town so you can walk to most sights, and plan to wander at different times of day, since the light on the brickwork changes a lot.
• Carry some cash in local currency for bazaars, small cafes and taxis, and keep cards for larger hotels and restaurants.
• Try tea in one of the courtyard teahouses around Lyabi-Hauz, the pool surrounded by old mulberry trees, and have plov at lunchtime when it is freshest.
• Dress modestly when visiting mosques and religious sites, with covered shoulders and knees, and take off your shoes where asked.
• In the bazaars, bargaining is normal and expected, so stay friendly and do not feel pressed to buy.
• Bring a hat, sunscreen and a water bottle, because there is little shade on the open squares and between sights.

When to go

Spring, from April to early June, and autumn, from September to October, are the most comfortable times, with warm days and cool evenings. Summer is very hot and dry, so sightseeing is best done early or late in the day. Winter is cold and quiet, with the occasional frost, and the crowds are thin.

From the airport

Bukhara's airport lies a few kilometres east of the old town, and the ride into the centre by taxi usually takes around fifteen to twenty minutes. Hotels will often arrange a pickup if you ask in advance. Once in the old town, most sights are within walking distance of one another.