Nukus

Good to know

1. 1The Savitsky Museum holds one of the largest collections of Russian avant-garde art in the world, along with Karakalpak costumes, jewellery and archaeological finds. Igor Savitsky gathered much of it in the Soviet period, when many of these artists were out of favour.
2. 2Karakalpakstan is an autonomous republic within Uzbekistan, and the Karakalpaks have their own language. It is a Turkic language closer to Kazakh than to Uzbek, and you will also hear Uzbek and Russian in the city.
3. 3The Aral Sea once reached close to the town of Muynak, north of Nukus. After rivers feeding it were diverted for irrigation from the 1960s, the water retreated, and rusting ships still lie on the dry seabed.
4. 4The land around Nukus was part of ancient Khorezm, and the desert holds the ruins of many mud-brick fortresses, among them Toprak-Kala and Ayaz-Kala. Many are reached by driving on sandy tracks.
5. 5The Mizdakhan necropolis near Khojeli, not far from Nukus, is an old burial site with graves and mausoleums spread over several hills, and it is still used.
6. 6Karakalpak food shares much with its Kazakh and Uzbek neighbours. Plov, grilled meat and besbarmak, boiled meat served over broad noodles, are all common.

Tips for a first visit

• Arrange a driver or a guide for Muynak and the fortresses. Distances are long, public transport is thin, and the tracks are hard to follow without local knowledge.
• Carry some cash in the local currency, the som, since cards are not accepted everywhere outside larger hotels and restaurants.
• Bring water, a hat and sun protection for any trip into the desert, and expect dust on the roads.
• Dress modestly, especially at religious sites, and greet people with a handshake or a hand on the chest. Take your shoes off if you are invited into a home.
• Try fresh flatbread from a local baker and a plain plov at a neighbourhood café. Stick to bottled or boiled water.
• Give the Savitsky Museum a good part of a day, and do not expect everything to be explained in English, so a little reading beforehand helps.

When to go

Spring and autumn are the most comfortable times, with mild days that suit both the city and the desert. Summers are very hot and dry, and the fortresses can be hard going at midday. Winters are cold and windy, which suits the museum but not long drives across open country.

From the airport

Nukus airport lies close to the city, and the ride into the centre by taxi is short, usually about fifteen to twenty minutes. Taxis are the simplest way to go, and your hotel can often arrange a pickup. Within the city, taxis and local minibuses are the usual options, and most central sights are a short ride from each other.