Turkmenistan

Good to know

1. 1About four fifths of the country is covered by the Karakum Desert, one of the largest sand deserts in the world.
2. 2The Darvaza gas crater, known as the Door to Hell, is a pit of burning natural gas in the desert that has been alight for decades. People usually visit it at night, when the flames are easiest to see.
3. 3Ashgabat, the capital, is known for its white marble buildings, wide avenues and large monuments, and it holds records for how much white marble it uses.
4. 4Merv, near the city of Mary, was once among the largest cities in the world and a major stop on the Silk Road. Its ruins are a UNESCO World Heritage site.
5. 5Turkmen is the national language and is closely related to Turkish and Azerbaijani. Russian is still widely understood, especially in cities.
6. 6The Akhal-Teke is a slender horse breed developed in Turkmenistan, and it is a national symbol that appears on emblems and in art. Turkmen carpets are also famous, and the traditional red patterns appear on the national flag.

Tips for a first visit

• Plan your route before you arrive, because independent travel is more restricted here than in most countries. Many visitors book a guide or an organised itinerary.
• Bring enough clean, undamaged cash and do not count on cards working everywhere. Ask your hotel or guide about money before you set out.
• Try plov, the rice and meat dish common across Central Asia, and fresh flatbread from a local bakery. Melons are a source of national pride, so try one when they are in season.
• Dress modestly, especially when visiting mosques and mausoleums, and ask before photographing government buildings, military sites or people.
• Do not expect fast or easy internet, and download maps and anything you need before you go.
• Carry plenty of water and sun protection on any trip into the desert.

When to go

Spring and autumn are the best times to go, when days are warm rather than extreme and the desert is comfortable to visit. Summers are very hot, with daytime temperatures that make sightseeing hard outside the early morning and evening. Winters are cold, particularly at night and in the north, though they can be quiet and clear.

Getting around

Most international flights arrive in Ashgabat, and the national airline connects the capital with other main cities such as Mary, Turkmenabat, Dashoguz and Turkmenbashi. Trains and long-distance buses also link major towns, but distances are large and journeys can be slow. For desert sites and smaller places, most visitors travel by car with a driver or guide.