Ashgabat

Good to know

1. 1Ashgabat is the capital of Turkmenistan and has been rebuilt on a grand scale since a major earthquake destroyed much of the old city in 1948.
2. 2The city is known for the number of white marble buildings in its centre, and it has been recognised in world records for this.
3. 3Turkmen is the national language, and Russian is still widely understood, especially among older people and in business.
4. 4Turkmenistan is famous for its carpets, and the Turkmen carpet appears on the national flag. The national carpet museum in the city is a good place to learn how they are made and what the patterns mean.
5. 5The Akhal-Teke horse, a slim and fast breed from this region, is a national symbol, and you will see it in statues and artwork around the city.
6. 6The Kopet Dag mountains rise just south of the city and form the border with Iran, which gives Ashgabat a dramatic backdrop on clear days.

Tips for a first visit

• Bring some cash as well as a card, since cards are not accepted everywhere and cash machines can be hard to rely on. Exchange or withdraw money in advance of the places you plan to visit.
• Be careful with photography. Government buildings, military sites and some monuments are sensitive, so ask first or put the camera away if you are unsure.
• Dress modestly when visiting mosques and religious sites, and take off your shoes where it is expected.
• Try plov, the rice and meat dish found across Central Asia, and the local filled breads such as gutap and ichlekli. Green tea is served almost everywhere.
• Take a day trip to the Karakum Desert or to the old sites outside the city, such as Nisa, to see a side of the country the capital does not show.
• Walk in the early morning or evening, because the city is spread out and the middle of the day can be very hot in summer.

When to go

Spring and autumn are the most comfortable times to visit, with mild days that suit walking and day trips. Summers are very hot and dry, so sightseeing is best done early or late in the day. Winters are cool and can be cold at night, with some rain, and the sky is often clear enough to see the mountains well.

From the airport

Ashgabat International Airport lies a short distance northwest of the centre, and the drive into town is usually short, around fifteen to twenty minutes depending on traffic. Taxis are the simplest way to make the trip, and many hotels can also arrange a pickup in advance.