Serbia

Good to know

1. 1Belgrade, the capital, stands where the Sava river meets the Danube, and its old Kalemegdan fortress looks out over the meeting point. The city has been fought over and rebuilt many times, so its layers of history are easy to spot.
2. 2Serbian is written in both Cyrillic and Latin letters, and you will see both on signs, menus and shopfronts. Most people can read both, and many younger people speak some English.
3. 3The national currency is the Serbian dinar, not the euro, even though Serbia is in Europe. Cash is still useful for small purchases.
4. 4Food is hearty and meat-heavy: grilled dishes such as ćevapi and pljeskavica are everywhere, and bread, cream cheese called kajmak and roasted peppers often come with them. Rakija, a fruit brandy, is the traditional drink and is often offered to guests.
5. 5Novi Sad, the second city, is on the Danube and is known for its big fortress at Petrovaradin. The Fruška Gora hills nearby hold old Orthodox monasteries and local vineyards.
6. 6Serbia has many medieval Orthodox monasteries, some of them from the 12th and 13th centuries, with frescoes that are still well preserved. Several are in quiet countryside and are worth a day trip.

Tips for a first visit

• Take cash for small cafés, markets and taxis, but cards are widely accepted in cities, hotels and larger restaurants. Cash machines are easy to find.
• Come hungry and be ready to be fed more than you ordered. Refusing a second helping from a host can take some polite insistence.
• If you are invited into a home, bring a small gift such as sweets or flowers, and take your shoes off at the door if others do.
• Try burek, a flaky pastry filled with cheese or meat, for breakfast, and sample a local rakija if you are offered one. Sip it slowly and say živeli, which means cheers.
• Cafés are a big part of daily life, and people sit for hours over one coffee. Do not expect to be hurried along, and ask for the bill when you are ready rather than waiting for it.
• Learn a few words like hvala (thank you) and molim (please or you are welcome). Even a clumsy attempt gets a warm reaction.

When to go

Spring and early autumn are the most comfortable times for city walks, countryside trips and monastery visits, with mild days and pleasant evenings. Summer is hot, but it is the season of river life, outdoor festivals and long nights on the water in Belgrade and Novi Sad. Winter is cold and can be grey, though it suits people who want cosy restaurants and fewer visitors, and the mountains get snow.

Getting around

Most people travel between Serbian cities by bus, which is frequent and covers nearly every town. Trains link Belgrade with a few main cities such as Novi Sad and Niš, and they are a calm option on those routes. Renting a car is a good choice if you want to reach monasteries, mountains and villages that public transport serves only occasionally.