Belgrade

Good to know

1. 1Belgrade sits where the Sava river flows into the Danube, and the old Kalemegdan fortress stands right above the meeting point. The site has been fortified by Celts, Romans, Byzantines, Ottomans and Austrians in turn, which is why the city has been fought over so many times.
2. 2Serbian is written in both Cyrillic and Latin letters, and you will see both on shop signs and menus. Learning the Cyrillic alphabet takes an afternoon and makes street signs much easier to read.
3. 3The Church of Saint Sava is one of the largest Orthodox churches in the world. It stands on a hill in the Vračar district and can be seen from far across the city.
4. 4Food is meaty and generous: grilled meats such as ćevapi and pljeskavica, cheese pastries called burek, and kajmak, a soft creamy dairy spread. Rakija, a strong fruit brandy, is the traditional drink and is often offered to guests.
5. 5Belgrade is known for its floating river clubs, called splavovi, moored along the Sava and Danube. Nightlife here starts late and runs well into the morning.
6. 6The money is the Serbian dinar, not the euro, even though Serbia is in Europe.

Tips for a first visit

• The centre and the old pedestrian streets around Knez Mihailova are easy to explore on foot. Wear comfortable shoes, as some streets are steep and the pavements uneven.
• Carry some dinars in cash for small cafés, bakeries and markets, though cards are accepted in most restaurants and shops. Change money at official exchange offices or take it from a bank cash machine rather than from street dealers.
• Try burek with plain yoghurt for breakfast, and spend an evening in the old bohemian quarter of Skadarlija, where restaurants serve traditional dishes with live music.
• Smoking indoors is still common in some bars and cafés, so ask for a table outside or in a non-smoking area if it bothers you.
• If you are offered rakija at someone's home, accepting a small glass is polite. A friendly toast, and eye contact while you do it, goes down well.
• Taxis are plentiful, but it is safer to book one by phone or through an app than to hail one on the street, which avoids disputes about the route.

When to go

Late spring and early autumn are the most comfortable times, with warm days, outdoor cafés full and fewer extremes. Summer is hot and lively, with the river life at its busiest, while winters are cold and grey but quieter, with cosy restaurants and less crowding.

From the airport

Belgrade's main airport is Nikola Tesla Airport, about 18 kilometres west of the centre. Buses run into the city, taxis make the trip in roughly 25 to 40 minutes depending on traffic, and the ride is shortest outside rush hour. Within the city, buses, trams and trolleybuses cover the centre, and many sights are close enough to walk between.