Moldova

Good to know

1. 1Wine is at the heart of the country. Vineyards cover much of the land, and some producers keep their bottles in huge underground limestone tunnels, such as those at Mileștii Mici and Cricova, where the cellars are laid out like streets.
2. 2The official language is Romanian, which Moldovans often call Moldovan in everyday speech. Russian is also widely understood and spoken, especially in cities, so many people switch easily between the two.
3. 3The currency is the Moldovan leu. Moldova is one of the few countries where the Orthodox Christian calendar, folk costume and village traditions are still part of ordinary life, not just a show for visitors.
4. 4The capital, Chișinău, is a green city with wide boulevards, parks and Soviet-era buildings alongside newer ones. It is the main base for most visitors.
5. 5Traditional food includes mămăligă, a soft cornmeal dish similar to polenta, often served with cheese and sour cream, and placinte, thin pastries filled with cheese, potato or cabbage.
6. 6Orheiul Vechi, a cliffside complex of caves and a monastery above a river bend, is one of the best-known places to visit outside the capital.

Tips for a first visit

• Base yourself in Chișinău and take day trips to wineries, monasteries and villages. Many places are easiest to reach with a driver or an organised tour.
• Book winery visits ahead of time, since many of them work by appointment, especially the larger cellars with tastings and tours.
• Carry some cash in leu for villages, markets and small guesthouses, even though cards work in many shops and restaurants in the capital.
• Try mămăligă, placinte and a glass of local wine at a family-run restaurant, and ask what the house recommends.
• Learning a few words of Romanian or Russian goes a long way. People appreciate the effort, and English is less common outside the capital and among older people.
• If you are invited to someone's home, bring a small gift such as sweets or flowers, and expect to be offered a lot of food and drink.

When to go

Spring and early autumn are the most pleasant times to go, with mild weather and green or golden countryside. Late summer and September bring the grape harvest, and early October has the national wine festival, which makes it a lively time to visit. Summers can be hot, and winters are cold and grey, though the cellars and cosy restaurants are still good then.

Getting around

Most people travel between towns by minibus, known as a marshrutka, which runs between Chișinău and many towns and villages and is cheap and frequent on main routes. There are also some buses and a limited rail network, but for countryside sights such as wineries and monasteries, a hired car or a driver is usually the easiest way to get around.