Chisinau

Good to know

1. 1Moldova is one of the oldest wine-making regions in Europe, and wine is a big part of daily life in and around Chisinau.
2. 2Just outside the city, Milestii Mici and Cricova hold huge underground wine cellars, with long tunnels that visitors tour by car or small train.
3. 3The official language is Romanian, and you will hear Russian a great deal as well, especially in the city.
4. 4The currency is the Moldovan leu, and the country is not part of the eurozone.
5. 5Chisinau was heavily rebuilt after the Second World War, which is why the centre has so many Soviet-style buildings alongside older ones and green public squares.
6. 6Traditional dishes include mamaliga, a cornmeal porridge often served with cheese and sour cream, and placinte, thin filled pastries.

Tips for a first visit

• The centre is fairly compact, so you can walk between most sights, cafes and restaurants, and use a taxi or ride-hailing app for longer trips.
• Carry some cash in leu for markets and small shops, though cards are widely accepted in restaurants and larger places.
• Try placinte, sarmale (stuffed cabbage rolls) and a local red or white wine, and visit the Central Market for fresh produce and cheese.
• Book a winery visit ahead of time, since tours usually need arranging, and agree on a driver if you plan to taste.
• A few words of Romanian, such as buna ziua for hello and multumesc for thank you, are noticed and appreciated.
• If you are invited to someone's home, bringing a small gift such as sweets or wine is a kind gesture.

When to go

Spring and early autumn are the most pleasant times, with mild weather and good light for walking. Summers are warm to hot and the city is green, while autumn is the season of the grape harvest and wine festivals. Winters are cold and grey, with a quieter feel.

From the airport

Chisinau International Airport is a short distance southeast of the city. The usual ways into the centre are a taxi, which takes roughly 20 to 30 minutes depending on traffic, or a city bus or minibus service that runs towards the centre and takes a little longer.