Georgia

Good to know

1. 1Georgia has its own alphabet, one of only a few in the world, and its curving script is used for nothing else. Georgian belongs to the Kartvelian family and is unrelated to Russian, Turkish or Armenian.
2. 2Archaeologists have found traces of winemaking here that go back about eight thousand years, and many families still make wine at home. Some of it is fermented in large clay vessels called qvevri buried in the ground.
3. 3Khachapuri, a cheese-filled bread, comes in regional versions, and the boat-shaped Adjarian one with an egg on top is the best known. Khinkali, soup-filled dumplings, are traditionally eaten by hand, holding the dumpling by its knot.
4. 4The Greater Caucasus range runs along the northern border, and villages such as Kazbegi and Svaneti sit among some of the highest peaks in Europe. Svaneti is known for its medieval stone defence towers.
5. 5A feast called a supra is led by a toastmaster, the tamada, who proposes a long series of toasts through the meal. Wine is traditionally drunk in these toasts rather than sipped on its own.
6. 6The currency is the lari, and the country has a very old Christian tradition, with Christianity adopted as the state religion in the fourth century.

Tips for a first visit

• Marshrutkas, the minibuses, connect most towns cheaply but can be crowded and leave when they fill up. For mountain areas or several stops in a day, hiring a driver is a common and practical choice.
• Cards are widely accepted in Tbilisi and larger towns, but carry some cash in lari for villages, markets and minibuses.
• Order a few dishes to share and try regional ones, since cooking differs between the east, the west and the mountains. Ask about the house wine, which is often very good.
• Cover your shoulders and knees when visiting churches and monasteries, and women are usually expected to wear a headscarf or skirt in some of them. Many places lend wraps at the door.
• Drive carefully or let someone else do it. Mountain roads are narrow and winding, and local driving can be fast and unpredictable.
• If you are invited to a table, accept at least a little of what is offered. Hospitality is taken seriously, and refusing everything can come across as rude.

When to go

Spring and early autumn are the most comfortable times for most trips, with mild weather in the cities and green or golden countryside. Autumn is also the grape harvest, which makes it a good time for wine regions. Summer is hot in Tbilisi and the lowlands but ideal for the mountains and the coast, while winter brings snow to the high country and suits skiers more than hikers.

Getting around

Most visitors arrive at Tbilisi, and from there trains link the capital with cities such as Kutaisi and Batumi, and the trip is comfortable and easy. Minibuses, shared taxis and buses cover almost everywhere else, including mountain villages, though they are slower and less predictable. Many travellers also hire a car with a driver for a day or a few days, especially for the mountains and wine country.