Azerbaijan

Good to know

1. 1Baku, the capital, has a walled old town called Icheri Sheher, with narrow lanes, a caravanserai and the Maiden Tower, and it is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
2. 2Azerbaijan is often called the Land of Fire. Natural gas seeping from the ground has fed flames at places like Yanar Dag near Baku for a very long time, and the Zoroastrian-linked fire temple at Surakhani adds to the name.
3. 3Azerbaijani is a Turkic language closely related to Turkish, and it is the official language. Russian is still understood by many older people, and English is more common among the young and in Baku.
4. 4Tea is central to daily life. It is drunk black from small pear-shaped glasses, often with sugar cubes or jam, and it is poured whenever you sit down with someone.
5. 5Plov, a rice dish with saffron, dried fruit and lamb or chicken, is considered the national dish. Other staples include dolma, kebabs and qutab, thin pastries filled with herbs or meat.
6. 6The country has a surprising range of landscapes, from the mud volcanoes and rock carvings at Gobustan to the forested Greater Caucasus villages of Sheki and Lahij and the subtropical south near Lankaran.
7. 7The currency is the manat, and the country has a long history of carpet weaving, with regional patterns that differ from town to town.

Tips for a first visit

• In Baku the metro is simple and cheap to use, and taxis are plentiful, usually booked through a ride-hailing app so you do not have to negotiate the fare.
• Cards are widely accepted in Baku and larger towns, but carry some cash in the local currency for villages, markets and small teahouses.
• Try a traditional tea house meal and a plate of plov, and say yes if you are offered tea with jam. Sheki is known for its sweet halva-like pastry, piti stew and other regional dishes.
• If you are invited into a home, take off your shoes at the door and bring a small gift such as sweets or fruit. Hospitality is taken seriously and refusing food entirely can feel awkward.
• Dress modestly when visiting mosques and shrines, with covered shoulders and knees, and women should bring a scarf for the head.
• Plan trips outside Baku with a driver, a hired car or a shared minibus, since distances are long and some mountain roads are slow.

When to go

Spring and autumn are the most comfortable times, with mild weather for walking in Baku and travelling to the mountains and the countryside. Summer is hot, especially inland, though the Caspian coast and the high mountains are cooler. Winter is cold and can be windy and grey in Baku, while the Caucasus villages get snow and the lowlands are quiet.

Getting around

Most visitors arrive at Baku's Heydar Aliyev International Airport and use Baku as a base. Between cities, people travel by bus, minibus, shared taxi and private car. There are also trains on main routes, including services from Baku to places such as Ganja, and the roads in the lowlands are generally straightforward, while mountain routes are slower.