Baku

Good to know

1. 1The Old City, called Icheri Sheher, is surrounded by medieval walls and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Inside are narrow lanes, old caravanserais and the Maiden Tower, whose origins are still debated.
2. 2Baku has been tied to oil for well over a century. In the late 1800s it was one of the world's major oil-producing centres, and the money from that era paid for many of the grand stone buildings in the centre.
3. 3The city is known for its wind, and the name is often linked to the Persian words for a wind-beaten place. Gusts coming off the Caspian are a real part of daily life here.
4. 4Azerbaijani, a Turkic language, is the official language. Russian is still understood by many people, and you will find some English in hotels, restaurants and among younger people.
5. 5Tea is central to hospitality, served hot in small pear-shaped glasses, often with jam or sweets rather than sugar stirred in. Plov, a rice dish with saffron, and dolma, stuffed vine leaves or vegetables, are staples of the national cuisine.
6. 6The currency is the Azerbaijani manat. Near Baku you can also see the Gobustan rock carvings and the burning hillside at Yanar Dag, both easy to reach by road.

Tips for a first visit

• The centre is best explored on foot, especially the Old City and the seafront promenade. Use the metro or a taxi for longer distances.
• Carry some cash as well as a card. Cards are widely accepted in the centre, but small shops, markets and taxis may prefer cash.
• Try plov, kebabs, fresh herbs with bread, and sweets such as pakhlava. Drink tea slowly, since it is meant to be part of the conversation.
• Bring a windproof layer even outside the cold months, because the wind off the sea can make it feel cooler than the temperature suggests.
• Dress modestly when visiting mosques, covering shoulders and knees, and women should bring a scarf for the head. Take your shoes off before entering.
• Ride-hailing apps are common and usually easier than haggling over a street taxi fare, especially if you do not speak the language.

When to go

Spring and autumn are the most comfortable times, with mild days that suit walking around the city. Summer is hot and dry, though the seafront catches a breeze, and winter is cool, damp and often windy, with occasional cold snaps.

From the airport

Heydar Aliyev International Airport is on the edge of the city, roughly a half-hour drive from the centre when roads are clear. The usual options are a taxi or ride-hailing app, or the airport bus that runs to the city, which takes somewhat longer. There is also a rail and metro link at some stations, but for most visitors with luggage a taxi is the simplest choice.