Budapest

Good to know

1. 1The city was formed in 1873 when Buda, Óbuda and Pest were joined into one. Buda is hilly and quiet, while Pest is flat and busy, and people still talk about the two sides as different places.
2. 2Budapest sits on a network of thermal springs, and bathing is part of daily life here. Some bathhouses date back to the Ottoman period, and others are grand buildings from the late 1800s and early 1900s.
3. 3Hungarian is not related to the Slavic or Germanic languages around it. It belongs to the Finno-Ugric family, which is why many words look unfamiliar even if you know other European languages.
4. 4Goulash is really a soup, and the thicker stew with paprika is called pörkölt. Paprika runs through much of the cooking, and lángos, a fried flatbread with sour cream and cheese, is a common street snack.
5. 5Hungary uses the forint, not the euro. Many places also quote prices in euros for tourists, but you will usually do better paying in forints.
6. 6The Hungarian Parliament building on the Pest bank is one of the largest in Europe, and it looks especially fine from the Buda side after dark.

Tips for a first visit

• Walk a lot, but use the trams too. Tram lines along both riverbanks give some of the best views of the city for the cost of an ordinary ticket, and you should validate your ticket before you ride.
• Cards are widely accepted, but carry a little cash in forints for small cafés, public toilets and market stalls. Be careful with currency exchange booths in tourist areas and use a bank or an ATM from a bank instead.
• Try a ruin bar in the old Jewish quarter, where bars were set up in empty, crumbling buildings and courtyards. Go early in the evening if you want a seat and a calmer atmosphere.
• Say köszönöm for thank you and szia as a casual hello. A few words in Hungarian are always appreciated, though many younger people speak good English.
• Check the bathhouse rules before you go. Most expect you to bring or rent a swimsuit and a towel, and some have mixed and single-sex days.
• In restaurants a service charge is often added to the bill. Look at the receipt before you add a tip on top.

When to go

Spring and early autumn are the easiest times, with mild days that suit walking and sitting outside. Summers can be hot, but the city stays lively and the river banks fill up in the evenings. Winters are cold and often grey, which makes the thermal baths and cafés all the more welcome, and the Christmas markets are a good reason to come in December.

From the airport

Budapest Ferenc Liszt International Airport lies southeast of the centre. The usual ways into town are a taxi, which takes about half an hour depending on traffic, or a public bus connecting to the metro, which takes a little longer but costs less. There are also airport shuttle services that drop you at your address, and a rail link runs from the area into the city.