Tajikistan

Good to know

1. 1About 90 percent of the country is covered by mountains, and the Pamir range in the east holds some of the highest peaks in the former Soviet Union.
2. 2The main language is Tajik, a form of Persian, which makes it closer to the language of Iran and Afghanistan than to the Turkic languages spoken by most of its neighbours. Russian is still widely understood and used between people of different backgrounds.
3. 3The Pamir Highway, a road that crosses the eastern part of the country at great height, is one of the best-known road journeys in Asia and follows old Silk Road routes.
4. 4Tea is central to hospitality. You are likely to be offered green or black tea and flatbread, often with dried fruit, nuts and sweets, almost as soon as you sit down in a home.
5. 5A classic dish is plov, rice cooked with meat, carrots and onions, often served for guests and at celebrations.
6. 6The currency is the somoni, and the capital, Dushanbe, is a green city of wide avenues, parks and tree-lined streets.

Tips for a first visit

• Allow more time than the map suggests. Mountain roads are slow, and journeys that look short can take most of a day.
• Carry enough cash when you head out of the main cities, since cards and cash machines become rare in villages and mountain areas.
• Accept invitations to eat or drink tea when they come, and try the bread, dried apricots and fresh fruit that are served. Refusing food outright can seem impolite, so take at least a little.
• Dress modestly, especially outside the capital, with covered shoulders and knees. Take your shoes off when entering a home.
• Learn a few words of Russian or Tajik. Even basic greetings are appreciated, and English is not widely spoken outside the capital and among younger people.
• If you plan to go high into the mountains, give yourself a few days to adjust to the altitude and carry warm layers even in summer.

When to go

Late spring and early autumn are good for the cities and lower valleys, with mild days and fewer extremes. Summer is the main season for the high Pamirs and for trekking, though the lowlands can be very hot. Winter is cold and snowy, and many mountain roads and passes become hard or impossible to use.

Getting around

Most people travel between cities by road, in shared taxis, minibuses or hired cars with a driver, since the rail network is limited. Shared taxis leave from central stops once they fill up, and hiring a driver is the usual way to cover long mountain routes such as the Pamir Highway. Domestic flights exist on a few routes, but roads remain the main way to see the country.