South Korea

Good to know

1. 1Korean is written in Hangul, an alphabet created in the 15th century under King Sejong. It is built from a small set of letters, and many visitors learn to sound out signs in an afternoon.
2. 2Meals come with banchan, small side dishes such as kimchi that are shared and are usually refilled at no extra charge. Rice, soup and grilled meat are at the centre of many meals.
3. 3The country is mountainous, and hiking is a national pastime. On a weekend you will see people of all ages heading up trails in full outdoor gear.
4. 4Seoul has been the capital for more than six hundred years, and its main palaces from the Joseon dynasty stand beside modern towers in the middle of the city.
5. 5Jeju Island, off the south coast, was formed by volcanic activity. It has a large central mountain, lava tubes and a coastline that Koreans often choose for holidays.
6. 6The currency is the won. Cards are accepted almost everywhere in cities, though small market stalls may still prefer cash.

Tips for a first visit

• Buy a rechargeable transport card on arrival and use it on subways and buses. It saves you fumbling with tickets in every city.
• Download a Korean map app before you go, since the map apps that work well elsewhere can be limited in South Korea.
• Take off your shoes when entering a home, a traditional guesthouse and many restaurants where you sit on the floor.
• Use both hands, or support your right hand with the left, when giving or receiving something from an older person, and when pouring drinks.
• Try bibimbap, Korean barbecue, stews such as sundubu-jjigae and street snacks like tteokbokki. Tell the staff if you cannot eat spicy food, as many dishes are hot.
• Tipping is not customary in restaurants or taxis, and leaving money can cause confusion.

When to go

Spring, with cherry blossom, and autumn, with colourful leaves in the mountains, are the most comfortable and popular times to visit. Summer is hot and humid with a rainy spell, and winters are cold and dry, especially in the north and the mountains, which suits skiing and hot-spring visits.

Getting around

Most people travel between cities by high-speed train, which links Seoul with Busan and other major cities in a few hours. Express buses reach nearly every town and run often, and domestic flights are mainly useful for Jeju Island. Within cities, subways and buses are easy to use and cover most places a visitor wants to go.