Osh

Good to know

1. 1Osh is often described as around 3,000 years old, and it sat on the Silk Road, where caravans traded goods between China, Central Asia and beyond.
2. 2Sulaiman-Too, a rocky mountain rising right out of the city, is a UNESCO World Heritage site. It has been a place of pilgrimage for centuries, with paths, small shrines and caves along the slopes.
3. 3The Jayma Bazaar is the big market of the city and has been a trading place for a very long time. It is a good place to see fruit, bread, spices, textiles and everyday goods.
4. 4Osh has a large Uzbek community alongside the Kyrgyz majority, and you hear both Kyrgyz and Uzbek on the streets, as well as Russian, which many people use as a common language.
5. 5Plov, the rice and meat dish cooked in a big pot, is a staple here, and the local version is known across Kyrgyzstan. Samsa, baked pastries filled with meat or pumpkin, and fresh flatbread are also everywhere.
6. 6The Kyrgyz currency is the som, and the city sits close to the border with Uzbekistan, which is why the Fergana Valley feels so connected across the line.

Tips for a first visit

• The centre is fairly compact, so you can walk between the main sights, the bazaar and the river. For longer trips, local minibuses called marshrutkas and taxis are the usual choices.
• Carry some cash in local currency, since small shops, market stalls and many cafés prefer it. Cards are more common in larger hotels and restaurants.
• Climb Sulaiman-Too early in the day, when it is cooler, and wear shoes with a good grip because the stone paths can be smooth and slippery.
• Try plov at lunchtime, when it is usually freshest, and ask for tea, which is served with most meals.
• Dress modestly when visiting mosques and shrines, and take off your shoes where others do. It is polite to ask before photographing people, especially at the market.
• Bargaining is normal at the bazaar for non-food items, but keep it friendly and relaxed.

When to go

Spring and early autumn are the most comfortable times to visit, with mild days and good light for walking and for trips into the hills. Summers are hot and dry in the valley, so mornings and evenings are best for being outside. Winters are cold, and the city is quieter then.

From the airport

Osh has its own airport, quite close to the city, and the ride to the centre is short, usually about ten to twenty minutes by taxi. Local minibuses and buses also run towards the centre, but a taxi is the simplest option, especially with luggage.