Astana

Good to know

1. 1Astana became the capital of Kazakhstan in 1997, taking over from Almaty, and the city has been built up rapidly since then. Much of what you see on the left bank of the Ishim River was planned and constructed within a few decades.
2. 2The city has been known by other names, including Akmola, Tselinograd and Nur-Sultan, before going back to Astana. If you see older maps or books, you may find these names instead.
3. 3The Baiterek tower is the city's best-known landmark, a tall structure meant to evoke a tree with a golden sphere in its crown. Many visitors use it as a reference point when they find their way around the central district.
4. 4Winters here are among the coldest of any capital city in the world, and the temperature gap between January and July is very large. This shapes daily life, with many indoor walkways, malls and heated spaces.
5. 5Kazakh is the state language and Russian is widely spoken in everyday life, so you will see both on signs and hear both in the street. Younger people and those working in hotels often know some English.
6. 6Traditional food leans on meat, dairy and bread. Beshbarmak, boiled meat served over flat noodles, is the dish most associated with Kazakh hospitality, and tea is served often and generously. The currency is the tenge.

Tips for a first visit

• Dress for the weather in a serious way, whichever season you visit. Wind is common all year, so a windproof layer is useful even outside winter.
• Plan your days around the districts. The central government quarter and the riverside are spread out and distances are longer than they look on a map, so use taxis or buses rather than walking everywhere.
• Carry some cash as a backup, though cards are accepted in most shops, restaurants and hotels in the city. Smaller markets and some taxis may prefer cash.
• Try beshbarmak, plus local dairy such as kumys (fermented mare's milk) or shubat (fermented camel's milk) if you are curious. They have a sour, distinctive taste that not everyone enjoys, so ask for a small amount first.
• When invited into a home, take your shoes off at the door and accept tea if it is offered. Small gifts for the host, such as sweets or something from your own country, are appreciated.
• Download an offline map and a translation app before you arrive. They help with street signs and menus in Cyrillic script.

When to go

Summer is warm and often hot, with long days that suit walking along the river and visiting parks. Winter is very cold and snowy, which is striking if you are prepared for it but tiring if you are not. Spring and autumn are shorter and changeable, and late spring and early autumn are often the most comfortable times for a first visit.

From the airport

Astana's main airport, Nursultan Nazarbayev International, lies southeast of the city. You can reach the centre by taxi or by public bus, and the trip usually takes around 25 to 40 minutes depending on traffic. Taxis are the simplest option if you arrive with luggage or late at night.