Milan

Good to know

1. 1The Duomo, the huge Gothic cathedral in the central square, took centuries to finish and is topped with hundreds of statues and spires. You can walk up to the roof and look out over the city.
2. 2Leonardo da Vinci's painting The Last Supper is on the wall of the refectory beside the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie. Visits are timed and groups are small, so it is worth planning ahead.
3. 3La Scala is one of the most famous opera houses in the world, and the opera season traditionally opens in early December, around the feast day of Milan's patron saint, Saint Ambrose.
4. 4Milan is known for risotto alla milanese, made with saffron, and for cotoletta, a breaded veal cutlet fried in butter. Panettone, the tall sweet Christmas bread, also comes from here.
5. 5The aperitivo is a Milanese habit: in the early evening you order a drink and get snacks or a small buffet alongside it. Many people treat it as a light dinner.
6. 6The Navigli district is built around old canals that were once part of a wider network used to move goods and building marble. Today the banks are lined with bars and restaurants.

Tips for a first visit

• The centre is compact enough to cover on foot, and the metro, trams and buses fill in the rest. Trams in some older yellow-orange carriages are still in service and are part of the city's charm.
• Cards and contactless payment are accepted almost everywhere, but it is handy to keep a little cash for small cafés and markets.
• Try a coffee standing at the bar like locals do, usually quickly and often in the morning only for cappuccino. Ordering one after a heavy meal can raise an eyebrow.
• Dress a little more neatly than you might in other cities, and cover your shoulders and knees if you plan to enter churches including the Duomo.
• Many restaurants do not open for dinner until around seven or half past, so do not expect an early evening meal.
• Keep an eye on your belongings around the station, the metro and busy tourist spots, as in any large city.

When to go

Spring and autumn are the most comfortable times, with mild weather that suits walking and sitting outside. Summers are hot and humid, and some smaller businesses close for part of August when many residents leave town. Winters are cool and often foggy, but the city feels festive in December, and fashion weeks in February and September bring crowds.

From the airport

Milan has three airports. Malpensa, the biggest for international flights, is linked to the centre by express train and by bus, and the trip takes roughly 40 to 60 minutes. Linate is much closer to town and is reached in about 20 to 30 minutes by metro or bus. Bergamo's Orio al Serio airport, used by many low-cost flights, is farther away and is connected to Milan by direct coach, which takes about an hour.