Makhachkala

Good to know

1. 1The city began as a fortress built in 1857 near the place where Peter the Great camped in 1722, and it was first called Petrovsk-Port. It was renamed in the early Soviet years after a local revolutionary, Makhach Dakhadayev.
2. 2Dagestan is home to dozens of ethnic groups, and people speak many languages, including Avar, Dargin, Kumyk and Lezgin. Russian is what everyone uses to talk across those groups, so it is the language you will hear most in the street.
3. 3Most people in Makhachkala are Muslim, and the large central mosque is the city's best-known building. Visitors are welcome at mosques if they dress modestly and follow the local rules.
4. 4Dagestani food is built around lamb, flatbreads and dough. Khinkal, which is boiled dough with meat and broth, and chudu, a thin flatbread with fillings such as meat, pumpkin or herbs, are the dishes to look for.
5. 5Wrestling is close to a national passion in Dagestan, and the region has produced many famous wrestlers and martial artists.
6. 6The Caspian is the largest inland body of water in the world, and Makhachkala's seafront is where locals go to walk, sit and cool off in the evenings.

Tips for a first visit

• Use the city's taxis and minibuses to get around. Minibuses run on set routes and are cheap and frequent, but taxis are easier when you do not know the streets.
• Dress modestly, particularly away from the seafront and when visiting religious places. Covered shoulders and knees for everyone, and a headscarf for women entering a mosque, are the usual expectation.
• Try khinkal, chudu and fresh Caspian fish at a local café rather than settling for generic food. Ask what the house is known for.
• Carry some cash for markets and small shops, even if cards work in larger places.
• Ask before photographing people, especially women and older men. Most are friendly once you have spoken to them first.
• If you are invited to someone's home, accept what is offered and expect a lot of food. Refusing everything can seem rude.

When to go

Summer is hot and sunny and is the beach season, though the city can feel heavy and crowded. Spring and early autumn are milder and better for walking, and autumn brings plenty of local fruit and grapes. Winters are cooler, damp and often windy, with snow more likely in the mountains than on the coast.

From the airport

The airport, Uytash, lies a little outside the city, roughly half an hour from the centre by road in normal traffic. Taxis are the simplest way in, and local buses or minibuses also run toward town. Once in the city, minibuses and taxis cover most journeys.