Istanbul

Good to know

1. 1Istanbul was once called Byzantium, then Constantinople, and it served as the capital of the Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman empires. Layers of all three are still visible in the old city.
2. 2The Bosphorus strait separates the European and Asian sides of the city, and ferries cross it all day. Many locals commute by boat, so a crossing is both transport and sightseeing.
3. 3Hagia Sophia was built as a Christian cathedral in the sixth century, later became a mosque, and its great dome still shapes the skyline of the old city.
4. 4Tea is served in small tulip-shaped glasses and is offered almost everywhere, from carpet shops to offices. Turkish breakfast, with cheeses, olives, eggs, bread and jam, is a meal worth lingering over.
5. 5The Grand Bazaar is one of the oldest and largest covered markets in the world, with thousands of shops under a roof of domes and arches.
6. 6Turkish is the main language, and the currency is the Turkish lira. In the tourist areas you will find plenty of people who speak some English.

Tips for a first visit

• Get a rechargeable transit card for the trams, metro, buses and ferries, since it is simpler than buying single tickets each time.
• Cards are widely accepted in shops and restaurants, but carry a little cash for small bakeries, tea gardens and public toilets.
• Try simit from a street cart, fish sandwiches by the water, and a proper Turkish breakfast on a slow morning.
• Dress modestly for mosques: cover your shoulders and knees, bring a scarf if you are a woman, and expect to take your shoes off at the door.
• Be wary of anyone who approaches you very warmly near the main sights with an offer of a shop visit or a cheap tour, and agree on the fare before getting into a taxi or use the meter.
• The city is hilly and the old streets are cobbled, so wear comfortable shoes and allow more time than the map suggests.

When to go

Spring and autumn are the most comfortable times, with mild days that suit long walks and ferry rides. Summer is hot and busy, and the old city can feel crowded. Winter is cool, grey and often damp, with fewer visitors and the occasional snowfall.

From the airport

Istanbul has two main airports, Istanbul Airport on the European side far to the north and Sabiha Gökçen on the Asian side. From either you can reach the centre by airport bus, by metro and tram connections, or by taxi, and the trip usually takes somewhere between one and two hours depending on traffic and where you are staying. Within the city, trams, metro lines, buses and ferries cover most areas, and the ferries are the most pleasant way to cross the water.