Copenhagen

Good to know

1. 1Copenhagen began as a fishing village and trading post, and the name comes from the old Danish for 'merchants' harbour'. The city became the Danish capital in the fifteenth century.
2. 2The Little Mermaid statue, based on the Hans Christian Andersen fairy tale, sits on a rock by the waterfront. It is smaller than most people expect.
3. 3Tivoli Gardens, in the middle of the city, opened in 1843 and is one of the oldest amusement parks in the world. It is as much a garden as a fairground.
4. 4Denmark uses the Danish krone, not the euro, even though it is in the European Union.
5. 5Smørrebrød, the open sandwiches on dark rye bread, is the classic Danish lunch. Pastries called wienerbrød are a staple at any bakery.
6. 6The Danes have a word, hygge, for a cosy, unhurried feeling of being together with good company, candles and warm drinks. You will notice it in cafés and homes, especially in winter.

Tips for a first visit

• Rent a bike or use the city's cycle lanes as locals do, but learn the hand signals and never walk in the bike lane. Cyclists move fast and expect pedestrians to stay out of their way.
• Cards and phone payments are accepted almost everywhere, including small kiosks and market stalls, so you rarely need much cash.
• Try smørrebrød at lunchtime, a fresh cinnamon pastry from a bakery, and herring if you are feeling adventurous.
• Tap water is clean and perfectly good to drink, so bring a refillable bottle.
• Queue politely and wait your turn at counters and bus stops. Danes tend to speak quietly in public, so matching that goes down well.
• Book popular restaurants ahead, particularly on weekends, as the best places fill up quickly.

When to go

Summer, from June to August, has long light evenings and the best weather for harbour swimming, outdoor dining and canal boats. Spring and early autumn are milder and quieter, and still pleasant for walking. Winter is dark, cold and damp, but the city is cosy, with candlelit cafés and Christmas markets in December.

From the airport

Copenhagen Airport is in Kastrup, just a few kilometres southeast of the centre. The train runs from the terminal to Copenhagen Central Station in roughly fifteen minutes, and the metro also connects the airport with the city centre in a similar time. Taxis are available outside arrivals and take about twenty minutes depending on traffic.