Almaty

Good to know

1. 1Almaty was the capital of Kazakhstan until 1997, when the role moved to Astana. It is still the country's largest city and its main cultural and commercial centre.
2. 2The name is often linked to the word for apple, and the region is associated with the wild ancestors of the apple. Apples are a local point of pride, and you will see them used as a city symbol.
3. 3Russian is widely spoken in daily life, alongside Kazakh, which is the state language. In Almaty you can get by with Russian far more easily than with English outside the main tourist areas.
4. 4Zenkov Cathedral in Panfilov Park is a colourful wooden Orthodox church, built in the early twentieth century. It is known for having been constructed without nails and for surviving the region's earthquakes.
5. 5Kazakh food centres on meat and dough. Beshbarmak, boiled meat served over flat noodles, is the traditional dish for guests, and horse meat and fermented dairy drinks such as kumis and shubat are part of the national table.
6. 6The currency is the tenge. Kok-Tobe hill, reached by cable car, gives a wide view over the city and the mountains behind it.

Tips for a first visit

• The metro is small but useful, and buses and taxis cover the rest. Ride-hailing apps are widely used in the city and are an easy way to get around without bargaining.
• Cards are accepted in most shops, restaurants and cafés in the city, but carry some cash for markets and small stalls.
• Try the Green Bazaar, where you can taste dried fruit, nuts, cheeses and local sweets, and see how people shop for everyday food.
• Take a day trip to the mountains, such as Medeu or Shymbulak, or to Big Almaty Lake. Bring warm layers, because it is noticeably colder at altitude than in the city.
• If you are invited into a home, take your shoes off at the door and accept tea. Bringing a small gift such as sweets or pastries is a kind gesture.
• Plan for the city's slopes and the altitude. Almaty rises steadily towards the south, so walking back to your hotel can be more uphill than the map suggests.

When to go

Spring and early autumn are the most comfortable times, with mild days, green hillsides in spring and golden trees in autumn. Summers are warm to hot in the city, and the mountains are a cooler escape. Winters are cold and snowy, which suits skiing, but the city itself can be grey and icy.

From the airport

Almaty International Airport lies northeast of the centre, and the usual way into town is by taxi or ride-hailing app, which takes roughly 20 to 40 minutes depending on traffic. There are also city buses that run between the airport and the centre, though they are slower and make more stops.